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“Surfing is a spiritual thing. If you think about it, you are harnessing the ocean’s massive energy. There’s a lot of good stuff there.”
That’s the way Tom, our surfing instructor, started out our first surfing lesson. After some basic safety instructions and “how-tos” we waded into the water, the kelp wrapping around our ankles [...]
Reflections on the 89er, part two
I’ll have to admit, living next to rock stars wasn’t exactly what I thought it would be. Don’t get me wrong — there were late night parties, loud music, girls, and, of course, alcohol. But, like I said, it just wasn’t like I had envisioned. Then again, all my [...]