good stuff

September 28, 2002 &bull uncategorized

“Surfing is a spiritual thing. If you think about it, you are harnessing the ocean’s massive energy. There’s a lot of good stuff there.”

That’s the way Tom, our surfing instructor, started out our first surfing lesson. After some basic safety instructions and “how-tos” we waded into the water, the kelp wrapping around our ankles like we were walking through a pool filled with lettuce. When the water was waist-deep we promptly laid on our boards and started paddling out into the grey water.

I’ve participated in all sorts of sporting activites over the course of my 26 years. I’ve fished, skateboarded, snowboarded, waterskied, played baseball, football, and basketball. But, I’m not sure if any of those activities were quite like my first surfing experience. Maybe it was the fact that it was so quiet and peaceful (we were out at 7:00am and the crowds were still in bed). Or, maybe it was just my tendency to get philosophical about stuff, I don’t know. Before I actually went surfing I thought all of the fun was in catching a wave and riding it to the shore. Although that part of surfing is fun, I don’t think it’s the only enjoyable aspect. I found rolling over the swells that, like a giant hand, swoop you up and gently set you down, is equally rewarding as actually riding a wave. Laying on top of the water with your face inches above the surface, the smell and taste of the saltwalter in your nose and mouth, really is something spiritual. When you actually catch a wave the power, chaos, and hint of ferocity creates a rush inside your body. You are at the mercy of the ocean and, like Tom said, are merely harnessing its energy in hopes that it doesn’t overcome you.

And so went our first surfing experience. At times I was so exhausted and dizzy I thought I was going to throw-up. Yet, most of the time I was just reflecting on how cool it was to be out in the water, waiting for the next barrage of waves to crash down and either propel me towards shore or cover me up and wash me away. Indeed, “There’s a lot of good stuff there.”

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